The one-month anniversary of Kivunim’s arrival in Israel came and went. A week-and-a-half in the desert followed by three-and-a-half weeks in Jerusalem has come to pass. Every day we continue to solidify our relationship with Jerusalem—seeing new places, frequenting some familiar ones, and traveling beyond the city limits only to return “home.” Since arriving here from the south, I have made my way around the country on the weekends. There is still much to see, but I feel I have made good use of the accessibility of the country and the opportunities that I have had to get out of the Beit Shmuel bubble where I sleep, eat and work. Here are some recent thoughts and events:
The scents and sights of Jerusalem have begun to feel increasingly familiar, so it is appropriate that at this point in the year (less than a week before our first international trip to Greece and Bulgaria) we have taken strides to see the city in new light. Right now Kivunim is hosting Tobi Kahn, a photographer from New York City, who has been connected with the program for each of Kivunim’s past two years as a facilitator of artistic literacy and expression. One day this week we awoke at 4:30am to journey across the street to Jerusalem’s Old City in time to see the sunrise shine the day’s first light on the Western Wall and the majestic Dome of the Rock.
Toting our cameras, we made our way through the Old City’s maze-like streets, watching and documenting as the world changed before our eyes. New and natural light was a powerful tool as we all tried to get at least one good photograph of this time of shifting perspective. From a curricular standpoint, Tobi’s presence makes a lot of sense—and not just for the photographers in the group. He ran a really special workshop on “visual lying,” which basically amounted to a lesson on bias and the ability to shape narrative through art. His words mirrored the teachings of our Civilizations lecturers, emphasizing the power that we have over shaping perception and selecting from reality to fabricate a coherent and meaningful work of art or history. Tobi’s early-morning lesson allowed us to look on symbols of Jerusalem, trying to appreciate what the images mean to us, what they look like when we try to check our associations at the door, and how those two dimensions play into photography or reporting of any kind (personal, journalistic, historical, etc.). This will become an increasingly important theme to keep in mind as we travel around the world and try our best to take in as much as possible about the raw reality and the mythic stories of the people and places we visit.
Daily life has been a treat lately. I do feel a level of routine, but there are always opportunities to wander and explore. A few nights ago there were fireworks set off in the parking lot below the Kivunim rooms. New restaurants are constantly revealed—from schnitzel to waffles, there is always a new hole in the wall to try out (or a McDonalds with four ice creams for ten shekels to exploit). Many of the major cities in Israel are also holding their mayoral elections around this time. The victor of Jerusalem’s highest office was Nir Barkat, a secular Likudnik who represents a major shift (or mahapach) from a series of recent religious mayors. Socially I can feel that the religious/secular dynamic in the city represents a lot of tension, but I will admit that I have yet to connect personally to the concrete politics of the city—though I recognize all the major candidates’ faces, due to ubiquitous campaign signs on buses and buildings.
On my way back to Jerusalem from Haifa last weekend, I stopped in Tel Aviv to attend the annual peace rally held in Rabin Square. The rally, and the square itself, doubles as a memorial for the late Prime Minister Yitzchak Rabin. Rabin was assassinated by a right-wing Jew on November 4, 1995 (a conflicting anniversary for Americans these days) immediately following a speech he made at a peace rally there. The rally this year was moving, and included speeches by all the country’s major left and center politicians. Rabin’s legacy as a war-hero-turned-visionary-of-peace is inspiring, and one could even argue that it is fortunate that the popular movement for peace in Israel is tied to such a figure, who also led the state during its major self-affirming wars. He represents the choice that Israeli society will have to make as a whole if peace is ever to be achieved; he was someone whom everyone could trust to appreciate the pain that Israelis have suffered (indeed, better than most), while also committing to hearing the stories of the other side and working for the idea that peace is ultimately in Israel’s best interest. Since Rabin’s death, Israel has seen some of the darkest days of the conflict, and today stands on an equally promising and precarious state in the peace process.
I expect that I’ll dedicate an entire blog entry to the theme of peace in the future. For me one of the most enriching elements of personal experience in Israel is being able to supplement my intellectual understanding of the conflict and the people here with living and breathing perspectives. This is a piece of my experience here that is blossoming, through possibly doing some interviewing for Seeds of Peace, playing with the Arab delegation from East Jerusalem that comes to the Variety Center (my social responsibility project site) on Thursdays, and speaking more Hebrew and Arabic everyday.
A couple of days after the rally, I had the good fortune to wander out of the hostel with my friend Elie, and stumble upon a free David Broza concert at the YMCA a block away. David Broza is one of the most famous songwriters in Israel, and has become something of an icon since his heyday in the ‘70s, here and in America—especially at Jewish summer camps where his lulling tunes are the soundtrack of summer nights. He was playing the show with an Arab band, as part of an event sponsored by the organization Searching For Common Ground, which facilitates media ventures for peace. We had the luck to arrive in time for the last few songs, which happened to include a couple of the only ones of his that we actually knew from camp. It was a very random and powerful experience to see those songs sung live in such an intimate setting; I am constantly impressed by how accessible this country is, and constantly reminded of how remarkably close I am to the center of the action here in Jerusalem. Prime Minister Ehud Olmert had a press conference at Beit Shmuel (the building where I live), Condoleeza Rice stayed at the hotel across the street when she visited Israel last week, and, as I mentioned before, the Rabin peace rally included appearances by Israeli President Shimon Peres, Foreign Minister Tzipi Livni, and Defense Secretary Ehud Barak—the latter two of which are currently vying for the office of Prime Minister.
The academics of Kivunim have been very interesting lately—a feeling that is accentuated every day as our trip to Greece and Bulgaria grows closer. Hebrew and Arabic are really exciting, as the line between the classroom and the street blur in my learning. We have been focusing heavily on learning the Arabic alphabet lately, which gives street signs here a whole new significance—not to mention the artful precision that the written language requires. As we learn about Islam in the Middle East Studies course, the historical value of Arabic becomes more and more intriguing. Arabic is a language that sounds entirely different in almost every Arab country, but the written Arabic is the same everywhere—a classic version that is rooted in the style of the Koran’s verses.
I’ve had several units on Islam in my schooling. The Kivunim introductory curriculum of Islam has centered on the life of Muhammad. For the first time I have been able to connect to Islam as a social movement. In 7th century Mecca, where pagan religion, politics and economics were all part of the same corrupt system, Islam was the religion of the common man that taught equality of all people. It was a social reform agenda that represented a level of identity that transcended the tribal affiliations of Arabia, and grew from the grassroots. It’s really sad that American culture has lost (or never fully pursued) an appreciation for the meaning of Islam at its foundation.
In learning about the Age of Jahiliyya (Ignorance), a term used in the Koran to describe the time period before Islam was founded, I am reminded of the first readings we did for the Middle East Studies class. Francis Fukyama talked about “the End of History” as the traction of liberalism in societies. When he wrote in the final years before the fall of the Soviet Union, his argument centered around the idea that the major conflicts in the world would be between those post-history people who lived in liberal societies and those who were still in the process of coming to the end of history (i.e. adopting liberalism as the basis for policy in social, political, and economic sectors). Jahiliyya seems like a similar concept, a state of being that specifically refers to pre-Islam Arabia, but could potentially be attributed to the entire non-Muslim world, and so could extend into today in many parts of the world. Just as Fukuyama posited that history, a concept that seems to develop at all times in all places, ends upon the adoption of liberalism, it occurred to me that an interpretation of Islam could argue that the Age of Ignorance ends when a society adopts Islam. (Of course, I feel the need to emphasize that this interpretation of Jahiliyya is as individual an interpretation of the Koran as Fukyama is of modern international relations.) Just as history comes to a grinding halt in Fukuyama’s western world, as it plods along in the rest of the world, the Koran says that Jahiliyya has become part of Arabian history, as it is still happening around the world today. This comparison brings me to the next point, which is the civilization-centric view of the world proposed by Samuel Huntington in “The Clash of Civilizations.”
Whether one calls the age of pre-perfection “history” or “ignorance,” whether one refers to liberalism or Islam as the end of necessary progress, both civilizations seem to have theorists who prescribe their major ideological institution as the be-all and end-all philosophy that marks the end of human development; it is only a matter of time, in their eyes, before the entire world wakes up to the value of their system as the ultimate version of human functionality. It is well known that one of the major differences between Islam and the two older monotheistic religions is the fact that, while it acknowledges Moses and Jesus as prophets, the Koran asserts that Mohammad is the final prophet—God’s final attempt to reveal His word after Judaism and Christianity corrupted it. With the advent of Adam Smith’s 18th century theories of liberalism, and the ascendance of the West as the unchallenged “First World”—especially coming out of the Cold War, when Fukyama wrote—it would seem that liberalism is the paramount modus operandi of global society. These are very clear and modern examples of the parallelism between civilizations that Huntington identified as the fault line along which the largest and deepest modern conflicts will be focused.
However, I don’t have to elaborate too much on the impurities of Islam and the failings of traditional anti-interference liberalism that exist in the world today. This is not to say that Islam and liberalism are definitely not the greatest ideas that we’ve come up with yet, but we have seen that it is still an unachieved ideal that we are all able to interpret liberalism and Islam in their most constructive and healthy forms—and, indeed, who knows what new frameworks and new interpretations of the existing ones will emerge as history continues to unfold. In any case it appears that we still have some growing up to do, and that no one institution or idea has yet captured the hearts and minds of the entire world. History is definitely not over, and even Fukyama admits that “the end of history will be a very sad time.” As Huntington notes at the end of his paper, “for the relevant future, there will be no universal civilization, but instead a world of different civilizations, each of which will have to learn to coexist with the others.” We must be able to appreciate our differences as the means for debate and progress (How interesting that these two major international relations theorists focus their entire articles on centers of conflict instead of opportunities for cooperation…), without compromising a commitment to revel in what unites us—and vice versa. Indeed, even if not everyone can agree that liberalism and Islam are the “right” systems, neither of them were designed as instruments of conflict that one society could use against the others; they were conceived of as systems that could potentially unite us all in each other’s best interests. If we can connect to that as the most fundamental of intentions, and continue to develop and refine our ideas and institutions, then we can truly make some progress.
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When we started our Civilizations class Bulgaria was a complete mystery and Greece was a little bit less of a mystery. It has been so exciting to learn over the past weeks about Greek and Bulgarian history both in breadth and in depth, how the Jews in those areas affected the history, and how the modern countries are affected by their histories. We leave in just two days to supplement our academic understanding of these places, and our personal connections to the stories, with some first-hand experiences of some pieces of the reality—an opportunity that only exists in our highest educational ideals. The only thing missing is a time machine, but as we’ve learned repeatedly—and as I am sure I will emphasize when we return—when one is a student of history, there’s no time machine like the present.
Happy Thanksgiving!